KATHMANDU – Nima Rinji Sherpa, an 18-year-old Nepali climber, and the youngest person ever to conquer all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, believes Sherpas deserve better recognition and opportunities beyond their roles as mountain guides.
Nima, who achieved the remarkable feat last week by summiting Shishapangma (8,027 meters), one of the tallest peaks in Tibet, emphasized the immense skills of the Sherpa community, stating, “I want to see Sherpas as global athletes, not just guides.”
Sherpas, an ethnic group from the Himalayas known for their exceptional mountaineering abilities, play a crucial role in assisting foreign climbers on expeditions. They are responsible for setting up ropes, carrying loads, and ensuring the safety of climbers on treacherous terrains. However, their contributions are often overshadowed by the achievements of Western climbers.
Nima, who began climbing at 16, has scaled all 14 peaks taller than 8,000 meters within the last two years. His aim now is to use his experiences and connections to raise funds and support for educational, healthcare, and community initiatives in Sherpa villages.
“We deserve the same privilege as Western climbers,” Nima said, adding that he hopes to be a bridge between his community and international donor agencies.
Nima’s record surpassed that of Mingma Gyalu Sherpa, who was 30 when he climbed all 14 peaks in 2019. Despite his achievements, Nima still faces physical challenges, such as muscle cramps due to his growing teenage body, which has made his climbs even more difficult.
His most demanding ascent was Pakistan’s Gasherbrum II (8,034 meters) last year, right after summiting Gasherbrum I (8,080 meters) within 25 hours, with minimal rest and food.
The young climber plans to take on another ambitious project this winter by attempting an alpine-style climb of Nepal’s Mount Manaslu (8,163 meters). Nima is determined to make history, as no one has yet climbed an 8,000-meter peak in winter using the alpine style, which involves minimal support and no supplemental oxygen.
“My goal is not to push beyond my limits, but to maintain good judgment and ensure safety,” Nima said, reflecting on the future of his mountaineering career while continuing to advocate for the Sherpa community.