Mexico City split between celebration and protest as World Cup opens at Azteca

MEXICO CITY — The Azteca stadium filled with mariachi, green jerseys and expectant fans Thursday as Mexico hosted the World Cup opener against South Africa, even as protests and protests camps across the capital highlighted deep local grievances ahead of the tournament.

Long lines circled the historic venue as supporters streamed in, many singing and waving flags. Alejandro Garcia, 50, wearing a sombrero and carrying a replica trophy, called the Azteca “our temple” and said he was proud Mexico was again on the World Cup stage after last hosting in 1986.

Yet just miles from the stadium, the city of nine million displayed a sharper mood: teachers, relatives of the disappeared and other groups used the global spotlight to press demands. Organizers said at least six demonstrations were planned the same day, and several groups had established encampments around the central Zocalo square in the run-up to the tournament.

Thousands of teachers marched toward the stadium to demand better pay and education support. Avelina Cruz Miguel, an elementary teacher from Oaxaca with 22 years’ service, said the protests aimed to bring attention to their cause “at an international level.” Authorities sealed off Zocalo entrances and set up security measures ahead of the opener, though officials confirmed a public fan zone would remain open.

The city’s renovations for the World Cup, new murals, upgraded transit and a refurbished stadium,  contrasted with visible signs of discontent: businesses erected steel barricades to guard against unrest, and residents complained that funds were prioritised for tourists rather than basic services. Thursday was declared a local holiday to ease transport pressure.

Affordability also stirred frustration. Several fans said ticket prices were far beyond many locals’ means; some reported paying the equivalent of about $3,000 for opening-match seats. FIFA defended pricing as comparable to other major events. Jonathan Cordoba, 33, waiting in a long queue, criticised FIFA for prioritising profit but said he had no regrets about attending: “It’s the passion.”

Despite the tensions, thousands packed the Azteca and nearby fan areas to watch the kickoff, a spectacle that blended national pride with the unresolved social disputes playing out on Mexico City’s streets.